TORS OF DARTMOOR

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Cowsic Tor

Merlin's Cave

About 50 metres upstream from the Beardown Clapper on the south bank of the Cowsic River is a small but interesting tor at the foot of a plantation of conifer trees. Easily accessed from the public footpath to Beardown Farm where camping is permitted with prior permission in an open field, most of the rocks are moss-covered and embedded in the turf. They extend for some distance below the trees, culminating in the largest part not far from the river which forms a tall, 3-metre high rock formation on the east side.

This is a most picturesque spot and although both William Crossing and Eric Hemery (p.396) describe the area, each giving information on the repair of the clapper bridge by the Dartmoor Preservation Association (DPA) in c.1890 after it was swept away in a flood, neither seem to mention the rocks, with the former describing a 'beautiful dell' and the latter a 'wooded ravine' here. Edward Bray, later Vicar of Tavistock, married Anna Eliza (A.E.) Bray and was the son of Edward Bray, who all believed in the druids. A druid was a member of the high-ranking class in ancient Celtic cultures and the Brays were spiritual. Mr. Bray, senior, purchased Beardown in c.1802, including Beardown Tors which were enclosed by a newtake.

His son had a number of stones inscribed in the Beardown Farm vicinity, mostly concentrated by, or in some instances in, the Cowsic River, each dedicated to a poet or significant figure and often with a verse (Arthur B. Prowse, 1904). Crossing (1912) explains that 'His method of proceeding was to trace the letters on the stone with a paint brush, and then get them cut by a labourer with a pick.' Not all of the stones listed were inscribed and a number of inscriptions look like they are possibly missing verses beneath.

In A.E. Bray's book, we learn that close to the Isle of Mona is an area known as 'Merlin's Cave', which we take to be what has been termed 'Cowsic Tor' in modern times. We believe this because the author describes it as 'a recess, or kind of grotto, that is contiguous to this island...' The intention was to put the following inscription here, but that has not been found in recent times:

'These mystic letters would you know,
Take Merlin's wand that lies below.
'

With this magic wand, it is said that the bardic characters on two boulders at the west end of the Isle of Mona will be discernible, as the writing is not in English. Directly below Merlin's Cave and rediscovered in 2022 after it was cleared by Simon Dell is 'YE NAIADS VENERA', etched onto an earth-fast, pale smooth-faced boulder. This feature is at the lower end of a spectacular section of the Cowsic, where its waters wrap around the island and leap over huge granite boulders.

A short way upstream of the rocks there is another inscribed stone just below the Devonport Leat Aqueduct at SX 6009 7540. Now very worn and difficult to decipher, it once read on its west face 'THIS STONE WAS REMOVED BY A FLOOD 17', and on its south face 'SWEET POESY! FAIR FANCY'S CHILD! THY IMPARADISE THE WILD.' The former inscription is not the work of Edward Bray but a more recent addition after the stone was supposedly shifted downstream during a flood.

An altogether charming spot, Tim Jenkinson described the site in Dartmoor Magazine Summer 2021, albeit as a caption to a photograph on page 49 where it is named; 'This latter stone is best reached by crossing the old Beardown Clapper Bridge at SX 6025 7534 and following the river up the left bank passing below a small but picturesque tor of large, round and moss-covered boulders at the foot of a plantation before espying the rock in the river ahead.'

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Cowsic Tor
The map above is not a navigation tool and we recommend that the grid reference shown below is used in conjunction with an Ordnance Survey map and that training in its use with a compass is advised.
Grid Ref:
SX 6016 7539
Height:
380m
Parish:
Dartmoor Forest
Tor Classification:
Small
Access:
Public
Rock Type:
Granite
Credit:
Tim Jenkinson
Reference / Further Reading:
Mrs. Anna Eliza Bray (1844): Legends, Superstitions, and Sketches of Devonshire
Arthur B. Prowse (1904): The Rock Inscriptions at Beardown. Transactions of Devonshire Association 36 pp.127-134
Eric Hemery (1983): High Dartmoor
William Crossing (1912): Guide to Dartmoor
Tim Jenkinson (2021): The Beardown Inscriptions Dartmoor Magazine number 142 Summer

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